10 Comments November 10, 2009

RyuGin

東京都港区六本木7-17-24, Tokyo, Official Website

Chef Yamamoto Seiji (山本征治) opened RyuGin in December 2003 at the young age of thirty three.  Before that he had worked under Koyama Hirohisa (小山裕久) at Aoyagi (青柳) for ten years, channeling his talent for cooking the highest quality ingredients flawlessly.  In theory, the highest quality ingredients combined with impeccable cooking should guarantee an unforgettable meal. At least that’s what I thought.

The restaurant is located on a small side street in Roppongi.  The area used to be a bit seedy but after the construction of Roppongi Hills (六本木ヒルズ) completed in 2003, the neighborhood perked up.  Now it is known for its sophisticated nightlife including a handful burgeoning restaurants eager to collect their stars.  Yet despite being in such a lively neighborhood, RyuGin remains humble and quiet having just under twenty seats.

The service at RyuGin, like the service at nearly every other fine dining establishment in the city, was flawless and graceful.  The staff spoke with tremendous knowledge about the menu yet remained impressively humble.  The stage was set for a fantastic meal. Everything was ready, that is, except the food.

I was the only one at the table who enjoyed the first course, Atelier RyuGin’s home made bottarga served with daikon radish in yuzu flavor.  A thin slice of cured tuna roe served atop two smoked logs.  The dried roe was salty and firm, with a texture not unlike leather.  The flavor was intensely salty and of intense dried fish.  I thought this was a nice accompaniment to a glass of champagne.

RyuGin - Entrance to RyuGinRyuGin - RyuGin dining roomRyuGin - Atelier RyuGin's home made bottarga served with daikon radish in yuzu flavor

Special oyster from Akkeshi, Hokkaido served with smoked oyster purée and ponzu vinegar with céleri-rave.  This was the first disappointing course.  The oyster was very salty and its only flavor that of unpleasant fish.  The ponzu vinegar was too assertive distracting from any sweet components the oyster may have contributed.  The portioning was purportedly for one bite; but that was impossible unless your mouth looks like Shrek’s.

Ankimo, monkfish liver, served with ark shell clam, winter vegetable in apple vinegar, miso, and mustard.  Another disappointment.  The liver was completely covered with a cold, flavorless paste that prevented any flavor from the monkfish from surfacing.  This did not taste like miso pastes that I was used to; this had no character.  The miso paste was also unnecessarily jelly-like.  Unfortunate, as I love monkfish liver.

Hot soup of matsuba brand Tanner crab from Port Shibayama in season’s greetings style.  The title of this dish made me chuckle inside a little.  This was delicious and perfect for a freezing cold winter day.  The subtle clear and lightly salted broth extracted and enhanced the sweetness of the crab.  The quality of the shellfish was immediately apparent as despite sitting in a hot broth for several minutes the stringy texture remained in tact to the end.  The crab added a subtle shellfish flavor and scent to the pristine broth, just enough to make it interesting and different from most Japanese clear broth soups.


RyuGin - Special oyster from Akkeshi, Hokkaido served with smoked oyster puree and ponzu vinegar with celeriraveRyuGin - Ankimo, monkfish liver, seared with ark shell clam and winter vegetable in apple vinegar, miso, and mustardRyuGin - Hot soup of matsuba brand Tanner crab from Port Shibayama in season's greetings style

Assorted sashimi “RyuGin style,” feel free to serve this to me anytime of day or night.  There is nothing but praise that I have for this course.  The freshest fish in the world were prepared in a way that allowed 100% of their natural flavor to come through.  A lightly seared scallop topped with osetra caviar, red snapper from nearby Osaka, lean tuna, and homard bleu.  An assortment of flavors and textures from crunchy to smooth, lean snapper to rich scallop.

RyuGin - Assorted sarhimi RyuGin styleRyuGin - Scallop with CaviarRyuGin - Homard Bleu

Deep fried shark fin in cone,  a surprisingly enjoyable mix of crunchy fried breading and stringy shark fin.  I’m used to eating shark fin in soup; this was the first time I tasted it dry.  I loved this cone … textures were all over the place.  The salty batter somehow made the shark fin taste sweeter.

Crispy chargrilled “Akamutsu” with vinegar flavor on egg pudding, smooth taro potatoes.  As good as an egg pudding can taste, I suppose.  I have Japanese friends who go crazy for egg puddings like chawanmushi, as this is a very traditional dish.  Being a New yorker, I don’t have the same nostalgic connection.  (I can, however, enjoy mustard on my hot dog.)  The smooth taro potatoes made this entire dish have a texture of smooth pudding.  The textural monotony required that the flavor and temperatures be perfect: this dish was served just under room temperature and the flavor uneventful.
RyuGin - From RyuGin's holiday menu in 2006 - deep fried shark fin in coneRyuGin - Deep fried shark fin in coneRyuGin - Crispy charrilled Akamatsu with vinegar flavor on egg pudding with smooth taro potatoes
Venison with wasabi mashed potatoes and matsuke mushrooms. A thick cut of lean venison exquisitely cooked.  There was no cooking gradation from surface to center, all uniform.  The beautiful pink color glistened in the light.  But the real highlight of the plate was the wasabi mashed potatoes crowned with shaved black truffle.  The truffle was some of the most fragrant black truffle I have ever seen, easily detectable from across the room.  The squeaky matsuke mushroom was grilled just enough to remove the water and intensify the flavor without overcooking.  This was the highlight course of the night.

RyuGin - Grilled VenisonRyuGin - Chef's specialty winter edition, grilled meat of the dayRyuGin - Wasabi mashed potatoes with black truffle

Steamed rice with cherry blossom tea topped with aromatic sakura shrimp from Shizuoka.  Another incredible course.  These tiny shrimp were eaten whole and had a very subtle flavor of shrimp.  Since they were so small, most of the flavor and texture came from the crispy shells.  The heads were the most flavorful part, I really wanted more.  These were served on top of rice cooked so perfectly that each grain developed a springy texture.  The rice stuck together without sacrificing its shape, a clear sign of perfect cooking.

The rice was also served with a bowl of miso soup and pickled vegetables.  There’s something really satisfying about pickled vegetables and rice at the end of a meal.  I haven’t figured it out yet.  It has the same closing effect that a sweet dessert has; except without the sweetness.  It leaves me with a very clean mouthfeel.

RyuGin - Sakura shrimp from ShizuokaRyuGin - Miso soupRyuGin - Pickled Vegetables

Fresh pear compote in Gewürtztraminer aroma and three citrus in maple syrup.  I got a little worried when I saw a ball of grapefruit pulp.  After the first bite I waited for the bitter acidity to attack, much like waiting for the pain after stubbing your toe.  Except it never came.  The bitterness was completely neutralized; perhaps the pulp was soaked in some kind of sugar water before. The dish was very refreshingly bright and sweet.

Fifth year anniversary special, ice cream of chocolate truffles, accompanied with fresh orange jam.  I don’t like chocolate ice cream and this was no different.  The flavor was infinitely stronger than any of the previous courses, completely erasing them from my palate.  This entire course, I believe, should have been skipped.  But my friend seemed to enjoy it.

Ultimately light Warabimochi cake in coconuts, genmai tea, and kinako powder.  Light cakes to close off the meal.  These went nicely with hojicha.

RyuGin - Fresh pear compote in Gewurtztraminer aroma and three citrus in maple syrupRyuGin - Fifth year anniversary special ice cream of chocolate truffles with fresh orange jamRyuGin - Petits Fours of Warabimochi cake in coconuts, genmai tea, and kinako powder

My meal at RyuGin was lackluster; though, it did certainly have its highlights: the assorted sashimi, shark fin, and venison were my favorite courses.  It was immediately clear that this was a very talented chef.  But the rest of the meal was a blur; nothing really jumped out as memorable.  And frankly, of the three courses I did enjoy, once was enough.  When I returned home I saw the meals of my friends Chuck and Cathy, both of whom seem to have had very different experiences.  Their strongly positive opinions aside, just from looking at the photos, it’s clear that they had a different experience.  Could it be that RyuGin is not what it used to be ?  Or simply that I had a single forgettable meal ?  I’d like to return at some point; but, I’m in no rush.

Wine pairings for the night:
- Arbois, Grand Elevage Vieilles Vignes 2006
- Mersault Vieilles Vignes 2006
- Pinot Blanc Vin d’Alsace Domaine Weinbach 1999
- Maison Louis Jadot & Domaine Ladoix 1999
- Clos Windsbuhl Gewurtztraminer 2005

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10 Comments

  • Food SnobNovember 10, 2009 at 3:52 am

    RyuGin ranked highly on my list of places to try…so, it is a shame to read such an unenthusiastic post.
    Also, I don’t really find the pictures especially appealing.

  • ChuckEatsNovember 10, 2009 at 6:29 am

    when did you eat this meal? i ate at Ryugin 3 weeks ago and it was nothing like my first visit – solid 2-star but not the high 3-star of that first meal.

  • Rona YNovember 10, 2009 at 8:31 am

    I hope you give Ryugin another try sooner than later. My dinner there was one of the most enjoyable I’ve had, not just because of the flavours of the food or because of the friendliness of the staff, but because of the thought put into creating the dishes I ate. One of my favourite dishes was ayu plated as though they were still swimming in a shallow pool of water. The accompanying sauce had a watermelon base which mimicked the watermelon flavour baby ayu (the ones used that day were more mature) develop from eating a particular type of moss. “Whimsical” was the word that best encapsulated my experience at Ryugin. I’ve heard Chef Yamamoto’s style has changed somewhat since my visit, but I do think it deserves a second chance. Soon!

    (If you’d like to see a picture of the ayu dish, I have it up in flickr under the screen name rona_y.)

  • adamNovember 10, 2009 at 9:48 am

    @FoodSnob I’m not sure I’d cross it off without a revisit. I’m going to give the restaurant the benefit of the doubt that this was just a bad meal.

    @Chuck This was around New Year’s last year. I’m looking forward to seeing your post on your RyuGin experience from 3 weeks ago. Your first meal there looked unbelievable; it was the reason I wanted to go. Just disappointing when my meal was nothing like your pictures.

    @Ryona Your dish looks and sounds so imaginative. I do hope to return and experience something so creative as what you just described. Thank you for sharing !

  • LuxeatNovember 12, 2009 at 4:23 pm

    I really wasn’t impressed by Ryugin when i ate there around 3 weeks ago.Or maybe kaiseki(even modern) is just not my thing.

  • mauricioSeptember 14, 2010 at 4:34 am

    hey!!! i have to ask you to come back to ryugin!!!! i worked there for a couple of months and the food is absolutely amazing! it has the very best ingredients in the kitchen!!!!
    please feel free to ask if you have any questions about the food or the place!

    great blog!!

  • cindyJanuary 30, 2011 at 11:16 am

    I can’t agree with you more about Ryugin being lackluster. I went there just a month ago, and while the food was good, none of the dishes seemed particularly creative and the presentation was uninspiring for the most part. Seeing that you had a similar experience, I guess it wasn’t just one bad night!

    http://www.sugarednspiced.com/tokyo-ryugin/

  • Anita KlausOctober 30, 2011 at 11:20 pm

    On one hand you write ”’Another incredible course”, on the other ”’My meal at RyuGin was lackluster”’. I respect you and will put this on the back of too much sake (ja ja ja).

  • AdamOctober 31, 2011 at 10:59 am

    @Anita: There was a really good sequence in the middle of the meal, particularly the venison dish and the steamed rice with cherry blossom tea. But the rest of the meal was not at the same level. Hope that makes it more clear. And yes, there was a bunch of sake at this meal :).

  • drewDecember 3, 2011 at 3:01 pm

    Just heard they got their third star.

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