A Life Worth Eating

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C/ NOU, 7, Sant Pol de Mar, Spain, Official Website

A short drive North of Barcelona lies one of Spain’s best kept secrets. Sant Pau, restaurant of chef Carme Ruscalleda in Sant Pol de Mar, serves incredibly creative French and Japanese-influenced Spanish cuisine. My most recent meal sits right alongside El Bulli and Quique Dacosta. It’s one of the best experiences in a restaurant I’ve had. Chef Ruscalleda has a unique ability to isolate and enhance an ingredient’s natural flavors and present them in a very imaginative way.

We sat in the smaller of two dining rooms overlooking the Mediterranean. Subtle crashes of waves mixed with the whispers of waiters sliding about setting the remaining tables and bringing apéritifs for other early diners. The tone was calm and collected, and felt in many ways as if we were eating in a restaurant in Japan. What broke through the quiet was a sound I will never forget, the crisp crackling of our waitress slicing through our table’s loaf of bread.

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Cala Montjoi, Roses, Spain, Official Website

My recent meal at El Bulli was the most fun I have ever had at a restaurant. I said the same thing last year because it was also true. My two meals at El Bullí have kept the table laughing, analyzing, discussing, and chatting in a way I haven’t seen elsewhere. Our experience was both intellectually stimulating and novel. There were flavor combinations I had never tasted before. We were kept on our toes throughout the entire lunch.

It started as a lazy morning. Waves crashed and fizzled on the sun-drenched shore as we drank tea and coffee at our seaside hotel in Roses. Lunch at El Bullí was the only activity on the day’s agenda. Unlike last year where we (embarrassingly) overestimated the Costa Brava’s formality, this time, we left our suits and ties at home. At one o’clock we would casually drive no more than ten minutes to our lunch. We were ready, but in no hurry.

市東山区祇園町南側584, Kyoto, Japan, Official Website

Kyoto’s busy Shijo street — now bordered with arcades, single-item shops, and fast-food — was something quite different a hundred years ago. Shijo street is located in the center of Gion, the Geisha district of Japan’s old capital city, Kyoto. The ancient Shijo-dori, originally constructed as a means for travellers to get directly to Yasaka shrine, is now one of Kyoto’s businest streets, full of cars and tourists. Remnants of the street’s rich cultural past remain, including hundreds of narrow alleyways leading to quiet courtyards where one can still catch a glimpse of an ancient way of life.

Chihana, which translates to “flower patch,” was at first difficult to find. It didn’t help that the name was written in little kanji: チ花. The restaurant is located at the end of a long and dark alley no wider than an arm’s width sandwiched between two modern shops off this busy street. With each step into the courtyard the sound of traffic dissipated into the darkness. At the end was an unlabeled sliding door — common in this area of Kyoto where private Geisha dinners are held.

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中央区銀座４丁目２−１５, Tokyo, Japan, Official Website

My first visit to Sukiyabashi two years ago was one of the best sushi meals of my life. The meal’s beauty lies in its apparent simplicity: just rice and fish. Of course this is deceiving. The exquisite sushi is the amalgam of impeccable ingredients and skill, from the hand-selected blend of rice and its meticulous steaming, to the exacting ratio of fish to rice and the timing with which it’s served. Even the luke-warm temperature of the rice and its precise grain count per piece, as well as the sushi’s position on the plate, is no accident. Chef Jiro Ono, Japanese living legend, is perhaps the world’s greatest sushi chef.

The atmosphere of Sukiyabashi Jiro seemed more relaxed and comfortable than the last time. While both the chef and his son were friendly and engaging in 2008 food photography — no matter how subtle — seemed to make them a bit uncomfortable. Two years later and chef Ono was smiling and welcoming photos. The sushi bar also seemed to have more foreigners. During my last meal I was the only foreigner at the table. Considering my meal in 2010 was on the exact same day as in 2008, it’s unlikely a seasonal difference. This is probably due to its Michelin 3* rating permeating out, as well as the increase in internet publicity.

中央区銀座7-5-5, Tokyo, Japan, Official Website

Why eat French food in Tokyo? Because it’s usually better than in France! Located on the second floor of its own two-story building in Ginza, L’Osier perches over the surrounding street lined with designer stores and Tokyo’s fashion-savvy shoppers. L’Osier is both style and substance, however; its plates both visually stunning and delicious.

I had a meal here in 2006 and never got around to posting it. But I have such strong and positive memories about my experience here that it would be an injustice not to share it. I’m going to post what I remember based on my notes. I ate here before Michelin came to Tokyo and rated this restaurant three stars. It’s interesting to see how this restaurant seems to have only gotten better since then.