“Small plates add up to cost more than a multi-course tasting menu at one of the city’s fancier restaurants … [fried-chicken table reservations] disappear in just seconds.” That’s as unlike a Japanese-style ramen house in spirit as I can imagine. I assume you diners have experienced those, to compare, though the narrative didn’t develop that point. They can be found even in the US, near Japanese-expat. communities. They’re built around generous portions, low prices, freshly made noodles, and a simple menu. Multiple TV screens invariably run Japanese shows. If you asked for a table reservation, they wouldn’t understand you.

Aaron, if you want some fine, satisfying examples for comparison, let me know next time you’re visiting the Bay Area.